Corsica- A Mediterranean Gem

For the first time in its 100 year history, the Tour de France cycling race is highlighting the beauty of the island of Corsica.  The first three stages of the event are run on the island from Porto Vecchio to Bastia (stage 1), from Bastia to Ajaccio (stage 2) and from Ajaccio to Calvi (stage 3).

The Greek called  it Kaliste ("The most beautiful") and Corsica merits its nickname "Ile de Beaute" (beautiful island).  The fourth largest island in the Mediterranean, Corsica offers a variety of landscapes from rugged coastline with sheer cliffs, sandy coves and azure blue sea to tall mountains with lush green slopes that smells from the fragrant herb scented maquis. Corsica 's numerous delights beg to be discovered time and time again.

Come on....Follow me on my tour to beautiful Corsica.

Western Corsica -A Breathtaking Rugged Coastline 

The Gulf of Porto has the distinction of being listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From the resort town of Porto you can explore nearby natural wonders such as the Scandola nature reserve, Europe’s only land and sea reserve; the Spelunca Gorge, a canyon of breathtaking beauty and the Calanches of Piana, inlets with amazing giant granite sculptures that turned from orange to red according to the time of the day.

Central Corsica- Forrest, Rivers and  Lakes 

For an authentic taste of Corsica try the island’s interior where you will encounter small villages untouched by time, lush forests, mountains with tall peaks, lakes, splashing rivers and waterfalls. From the historic town of Corte, you can set out on hiking trips to the nearby Restonica and Tavignano Valleys. For energetic on foot exploration, the famed long distance GR20 lead well fit hikers to the island’s highest peaks.

Cap Corse, the Northern Tip of the  Island 

Bastia  was founded by the Genoese in the 14th century and was for a time the island’s capital. It is the gateway to the narrow mountainous promontory of Cap Corse which faces the coast of France. Explore tiny coves guarded by Genoese towers and picture perfect little fishing villages.

Eastern Coast -Beautiful Expansive Beaches 

The Eastern side of the island, between Solenzara and San Nicolao are long stretches of  fine sandy beaches bordered by pine and chestnut forests. So, enjoy a relaxing seaside vacation in the inviting waters along the Costa Serena or Costa Verde where you can partake at multitude of water sports such as swimming, fishing, jet skiing, sea kayaking, surfing, sailing, diving and more.

In the south, you will be  impressed by the citadel town of Bonifacio perched precariously atop a limestone cliff jutting out to sea at the southern tip of Corsica

The Megaliths of Filitosa -Unesco World Heritage site

Near Sartene, impressive alignment of sculpted Menhirs dot the countryside dating some 6000 years ago. 

Ajaccio, Napoleon’s birthplace, is set in one of the most beautiful gulfs in the world with mountains in the backdrop. Ajaccio’s light and colors worked wonders on Matisse who reportedly fell in love with the south when he came for a visit. Here you can enjoy a stroll around the old port lined with pastel colored houses and inviting café terraces.

Faune 

Wild pigs and boars, ruminating cows, herds of goats and sheeps deambulate  freely along the country roads and even on the beaches . 

Gastronomy

The traditional gastronomy  of Corsica offers luscious cheese, charcuterie, fresh seafood and pastries made of chesnut flour. Delicious fruits and vegetables from the fertile plain of the Balagne region are the staples of the corsican meals. 

Wine

Corsica has an important wine production ranging from the fruity wine of Patrimonio to the more robust eastern vin de corse.

When in Corsica, you must refresh yourself with the sparkling  local water Orezza.  No other brands will do here.  Sante!!

tags: Corsica 

There is more to Cannes than the Film Festival

The glamorous resort of Cannes on the French Riviera is well known for hosting the International Film festival.   For two weeks in May, Cannes (KAN) bask in the limelight as movie stars, producers, directors and anyone involves in the cinematic industry come together to preview a selection of  new  full length features as well as documentaries.




But, Cannes is not all glitter and glam ; in  many ways it has retain the charms of a French Riviera coastal town and here are five reasons to make Cannes your destination of choice on the French Riviera  anytime of the year.

Cannes is set in a wide protected bay on the Mediterranean Sea.  It is lined with sandy beaches, unlike the pebbly beaches of Nice, its neighbor.   Tourists and locals alike enjoy strolling  along its handsome waterfront promenade- La Croisette-- lined on one side by the blue Mediterranean sea and on the other  by palace hotels like the Martinez and the Majestic Barriere.






The Old town of Cannes, Le Suquet is uphill and dominates the old port.  It is fun to explore its  maze of narrow alleys, lined with small restaurants serving a variety of cuisines, arts and craft boutiques and art galleries.  At the top of the hill, stands the 12th century Church Notre Dame de l'Esperance.  From here, you can get a good view of the Bay of Cannes.









Marche Forville is a colorful covered market where the locals shop daily for the luscious locally grown fruits, vegetables, fish and other products .  It is a feast for the senses.










If luxury shopping is your thing, then Cannes is ideal.  In one compact area - principally along the rue D'Antibes and along the Croisette boulevard you will find a selection of famed luxury brand names.






         From Cannes, you can take a 20 minute ferry to the Lerins Islands - Sainte Marguerite and St. Honorat. These small islands, covered in scented pines and eucalyptus trees are far from the glamour of the Riviera ; nature in all its beauty dominates  here.  No cars are allowed on the islands and marked hiking trails invite visitors to explore the island at leisure.  The island of Saint Marguerite, was an island prison - legend has it that the Man in the Iron mask is believed to have been imprisonned here.   The  Island of St. Honorat is inhabited by twenty five or so Cisterian monks living in the oldest monastery in the western world; it was founded on the island in 410 AD .  They live happily in this idyllic setting producing wine, olive oil and the famed Lerins liquor.


Tags: Cannes, French Riviera

Rouen Armada 2013

This weekend and through June 16, Rouen hosts the 6th edition of the Armada-- a sailing event that takes place every 4 years in the Normandy port town.  50 beautiful sailboats, warships and other sailing crafts from around the world sail up the River Seine through the beautiful landscape of Normandy to settle in Rouen harbor .Visitors strolling along the quays can admire the boats, enjoy concerts, entertainment and fireworks.  http://www.armada.org/en/

Looking to see a Movie this weekend?

 Don’t miss “Renoir”.  The recent French film by director Gilles Bourdos depicts the painter Pierre August Renoir’s last years when he lived in the South of France .  1915, WWI was raging , Renoir both sons had been injured at the front and he had just lost his wife Aline.  He lived in the Cote d'Azur, at the Domaine des Collettes , a  9 acre estate a few kilometers from Nice, surrounded by a retinue of devoted servants who tended to his needs and care.  As the movie depicts, Renoir hands were deformed due to  crippling rheumatism which made it difficult for him to paint.  He nevertheless worked at his easel as painting was his raison d'etre.  One day,  a young beautiful model and aspiring actress shows up at his doorstep. She is bringing in the life's of the elderly painter much excitement and vitality.  She is to become his muse and last favorite model. I will not divulge anymore of the plot not to spoil your own viewing. 

I recommend this movie (and I have seen it twice ) for its cinematography as it portrays Renoir's lush garden at les Collettes .  It is like stepping into the painter’s canvas.   Needless to say the acting  is superb notably  by veteran actor Michel Bouquet as Renoir.   So enjoy !! 

Renoir

By the way, Renoir 's Estate - Domaine des Collettes - is now a museum located in Cagnes sur Mer and can be visited.  However,

the garden used to depict the domaine des Collettes is Domaine du Rayol - a mediterranean garden in the var region at the foot of the Massif des Maures facing the Hyieres Islands.

Farm at les Colletttes- Renoir

Tag: Renoir, Cote d'Azur, Domaine des Collettes

André Le Nôtre- The King’s Gardner

Andre le Notre

This year marks the 400 anniversary of the birth of– André le Nôtre- the landscape designer of a number of prestigious French gardens and notably Versailles, Vaux le Vicomte, Chantilly, Fontainebleau and the Tuileries just to name a few.  In the 17^th century he revolutionized the art of landscaped gardens and was the master of the French formal garden style ‘Jardin a la Francaise”. His legacy endures today. 

Born March 12, 1613, Andre Le Notre comes from a family of gardeners—both his father and grand-father were in charge of the royal gardens at the Tuileries Palace.  As a young man, he studied architecture and enrolled in the workshop of painter Simon Vouet where he learned classical art and perspective. There he met his friend and future collaborator painter/decorator Charles Le Brun and architect Francois Mansart.

In 1637, Le Notre took over the position of his father as head gardener at the Tuileries which he redesigned and where he created the expansive vista that became later the avenue des Champs Elysees. 

Vaux le Vicomte- Photo Parc et Jardin

Le Notre’s fortune and glory became solidly established when he was hired by Louis XIV's finance minister, Nicholas Fouquet to design the garden of his brand new castle at Vaux le Vicomte just southeast of Paris, near Melun. He designed symmetrical borders framed in low boxwoods and yews, neat gravel pathways lined with statues, expansive vistas, large basins with fountain works and grottoes  The result was so magisterial, that King Louis XIV upon his visit to Vaux le Vicomte got so envious that he arrested Fouquet. 

Subsequently, Louis XIV undertook the renovation and expansion of his modest hutting lodge at Versailles.  For that he hired the architect Le Vau, the decorator le Brun and the landscape designer Le Notre –all three had worked together at Vaux le Vicomte. 

Versailles- Photo Paris City Vision

At Versailles Le Notre refined further his gardening concepts:  symmetrical walks and side alleys that lead to groves, parterres of greenery, large perspectives, clipped edges, artful topiaries, canals and fountains, classical statues, fanciful grottoes, labyrinths and even fireworks.  It took 40 years for the work to be completed.

Domaine de Chantilly- Oise Tourisme

In 1663, Andre Le Notre worked on the garden of another grand Chateau at Chantilly commissioned by its owner the Grand Conde.  Here, water reigns supreme.  A large expanse of water is bordered by symmetrical parterres. Of all the gardens designed by le Notre, Chantilly was his favorite. 

This year a program of celebrations of Le Notre's works will take place at Versailles, Vaux le Vicomte, Chantilly and the Louvre. 

Versailles – Le Notre en Perspective – 22 october to February 24, 2014 .

This exhibit will paint for  visitors an image of the multitalented man- designer, architect, planner, painter, visionary… 

In addtion, Versailles will feature the restoration of the Latone Fountain and throughout the summer there will be fireworks celebrations in honor of Le Notre. 

At Vaux le Vicomte, an exhibit on Le Notre will start April 12.  There will be an  audio visual display explaining the different stages of the construction of the garden and directed walks through the gardens will explain the optical illusions and surprising perspectives of the garden.  Also architect Louis Benech will design  a new flower garden this spring taking his inspiration from Le Notre. 

At Chantilly- Exhibit: "Le Notre and the Gardens at Chantilly in the 17th and 18th Century" - at Salle du Jeu de Paume, April 12-July 7.

In the Tuileries  from  May 25-September 30,  there will be exhibition walks in the garden organized by the Louvre explaining the main elements of Le Notre's design.  

 Tag: Andre le Notre, Versailles, Vaux le Vicomte, Chantilly

International Women's Day

Today is  International Women Day !! To mark this event, I would like to feature four French women who have had an impact on French history and culture and whose legacy still endures.   

Joan of Arc—(1412-1431).  At the age of 16, following visions and celestial voices that commanded her to deliver France, the "Pucelle" from Domremy set out to Chinon to convince the Dauphin Charles VII to let her lead an army against the English occupiers during the Hundred Years War.  A number of victories followed notably in lifting the siege of Orleans.  This led the way for the dauphin Charles VII to enter Reims where he was crowned King.  Though burned at the stake at the age of 19, Joan of Arc legend endures and has become an emblem for France's nationalism and freedom.  

  

Madame Vigier le Brun—(1755- 1842) -- Elisabeth Vigee le Brun was a successful court painter and a favorite portraitist of Marie Antoinette. Her exceptional artistic talent led her to be a member of the prestigious Royal Academy of Painting in  1775.  She left France at the start of the French Revolution and found protection and work in different courts of Europe –Italy, Vienne, London, and St . Petersbourg . She Returned in France in 1802 to much acclaim and continued painting till her death.  Her exquisite paintings are on view at the Louvre and many museums around the world. 

George Sand – (1804-1876) This 19^th century French writer , nee Aurore Dupin, was an early feminist.  A wealthy aristocratic landowner from the Berry Province, George Sand is known for her novel La Petite Fadette et La Mare Au Diable.  She was a political essayist who espoused socialist issues.  In order to circulate more freely in the Parisian literary world of  the mid 19^th century, she sported men’s clothing and against social codes of the time even was seen smoking in public.  She had a long amorous affaire with pianist and composer Frederic Chopin.

Marie Curie—(1867-1934) – Born in Poland, Marie Curie studied and worked in France as a renowned scientist.  She along with her husband, Pierre Curie  researched radioactivity. She was the first women ever to win a Nobel Prize  and is the only woman to win the award in two different fields (physics and chemistry).  It should be noted that she shared the award with  her husband and a collaborator, Pierre Becquerel.   She was also the first women to ever teach at the University of Paris Sorbonne and  the only women to be entered at the Pantheon on her own merits.

Coco Chanel- (1883-1971) – Gabrielle Coco Chanel revolutionized the way women dressed.  She is credited for liberating women from the constraints of the corset.  Her creations emphasized a more natural body silhouette, fluid, at ease yet stylish and sophisticated. During a long and prolific career,  her contributions to the world of couture included the knitted jersey Chanel suit and  the little black dress; they are still popular and stylish today as they were nearly  a hundred years ago.

French Popes in Avignon

It is the first time in 600 years that a pope retires from office.  This is a significant historical event  since  popes have held their pastoral duties till their death. For a period between 1309 to 1376, seven popes resided in Avignon, the picturesque  town in southern France which was at the time an independent city-state.  It started with a strife between Pope  Boniface VIII,  his successor Benedict XI and the King of France Philip IV.  After a deadlocked conclave , a French cleric was elected taking the name of Clement V in 1305. The new pope refused to move to Rome and instead set up court in Avignon.  A total of seven popes reigned in Avignon where they built a huge palace. In summer, they would retreat to their country residence , just a few miles north of Avignon in the village of Chateauneuf-du-Pape where they planted vineyards.

In 1376, Gregory XI left Avignon and moved the papal court back to Rome ending the Avignon Papacy.  Upon his death, a Roman mob demanded an Italian  pope (preferably Roman).. Under pressure the conclave elected Urban VI (not a Roman but a subject of Queen Joan of Naples).  A reformist, he immediately made clear that never again would the papal court move to Avignon. French cardinals immediately clashed with the new pope and they started to conspire against him.  They issued a manifesto of grievances and declared his election invalid since they felt they had been pressured by the Roman mob to elect an Italian.    The cardinals then proceeded in electing a new pope – Clement VII, the "Antipope", giving rise to a split within the Catholic Church known as the Western Schism when two men claimed to be the true pope.  Clement VII re-established the papal court in Avignon in 1378 that lasted until the Council of Constance in 1417 reunited the factions and  re-established one pope to be residing in Rome.

 

The popes’ legacy in Avignon still stands today.  The palace is the largest medieval gothic building in Europe. It is in fact made of two building- the Old Palace of Benedict XII and the new palace of Clement VI.  In all six papal conclaves were held there in the 14^th century- the last one in 1394 at the election of antipope Benedict XIII. 

Since 1995 the Pope's Palace has been on the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites and is a popular tourist attraction as well as a center for culture as many performances, notably during the renowned Avignon Festival, take place within its austere walls.

 It is interesting to note that Avignon and the nearby Comtat Venaissin were under Papal control till 1791 when it was annexed by France.  

Tag: Avignon, Pope's Palace, Popes in Avignon