Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Want a Little Spook in Paris??

Halloween is upon us as ghosts, ghouls and goblins prepare  to trick or treat on this eve of All Hallows (All Saints) which in  French is called la Toussaint.   Halloween roots come from the pagan celebration of Samhain where on this day it was believed that the spirits of the dead rose to mingle with the living.  Traditionally, Halloween is not celebrated in France but since the 1990's there has been an increase in the number of  revelers due to marketing efforts by companies like Mc Donald, Disney, Coca Cola and others who generated awareness for the holiday among French consumers.  When visiting Paris,  here are three places where you can get a good dose of spook.

Catacombs
In damp and dreary underground tunnels, dug in former Parisian quarries lay the remains of six million Parisians. Skulls, tibias, femurs are compactly and decoratively stacked. This ossuary was created in the end of 18th century when bones from the overflowing Cemetery of the Innocents located in the Halles district were removed and relocated in these old quarries. The removal of the bones took place every night for two years (1786-1788) in a long and lugubrious procession across Paris.  Bones of famous historical figures such as Madame de Pompadour, Mirabeau, Rabelais are among the remains. (Metro: Denfert Rochereau)



Pere Lachaise Cemetery
This is the largest cemetery within central Paris and the most famous.  Strolling along the neat winding paths and leafy alleys you can visit the graves and mausoleums of many historical figures including Heloise and Abelard, Moliere, Victor Hugo, Proust, Chopin, Oscar Wild and Jim Morrison. (Metro: Pere Lachaise)





Sewers of Paris-
 In Victor Hugo's novel Les Miserables, Jean Valjean tries to escape through  the labyrinth of the sewers of Paris. The system dates back to the late 1300's and has been over the centuries enlarged to cover  a network of over 1300 miles of sewer tunnels.  A visit of the museum of the Sewers of Paris will let you explore the galleries with large displays explaining the history of the sewers, the engineering and how Paris handles waste water from elimination to purification and drinking water. It is interesting to know that each sewer street mirrors the street above.  (Metro : Pont de l'Alma)

Sunday, October 28, 2012

Paris Viewed by Hollywood

A few weeks ago, while in Paris I visited the exhibit Paris Vu par Hollywood (Paris Viewed by  Hollywood ). It is held at the Paris City Hall from September 18-December 15.  More than 800 Hollywood movies have represented Paris real or imagined.  Iconic Parisian spots frequently featured include: Eiffel Tower, Place de la Concorde, Notre Dame, the Ritz Hotel, Place Vendome, the banks of the river Seine and Montmartre.  In the Hollywood movies Paris has a certain allure representing sophistication, sex appeal and a certain "je ne sais quoi." Cliches abound about Paris in the early Hollywood movies.  Often you see people drinking Champagne, attending fashion shows and partying the night away in Parisian cabarets. Starting with silent movies, Paris was the setting for major historical epics such at the French Revolution and Notre Dame de Paris.  Then in the thirties, Paris was depicted as the high society's pleasure ground, refined and sophisticated; after  WWII,  Hollywood movies featured the Paris of the artists, bohemian life and French Cancan. In almost  every movie  romance is associated with Paris. Many of the early movies were actually shot in the Hollywood studios and only in the 50's did American productions companies come to film on location in Paris.  The Paris Vu Par Hollywood exhibit features film clips, photographs, costumes, scripts, small model of decors and  posters. Directors who used Paris as backdrop include Ernst Lubitsch who featured Paris in ten different movies; Minnelli, Blake Edwards, Hitchock, Donen, Huston, Woody Allen, and Sophia Coppola to name a few.

Here are  10 iconic Hollywood movies set in  Paris :

  • An American in Paris (1951)
  • April in Paris (1952)
  • Gigi (1958)
  • Charade (1963)
  • The Pink Panther (1963)
  • Irma la Douce  (1963)
  • Da Vinci Code (2003)
  • Devil Wears Prada (2006)
  • Marie Antoinette by Sophia Coppola (2006)
  • Midnight in Paris (2011)
Midnight in Paris


Paris Vu par Hollywood -Paris City Hall- 5 rue Lobeau.



Thursday, October 25, 2012

Tour de France 2013- A Celebration of France's Patrimony

2013 will be a milestone year for the Tour de France bicycle race as it will be its 100th run.  From 29 June to July 21, the race will be run exclusively in France.  It will begin in Ajaccio, Corsica , the first time ever the race is to run on the island and then move on to the mainland where it will cover over 3300 km. Runners, followers and viewers will be treated to some of the most beautiful landscapes of France some of which are classified as UNESCO World heritage sites.  Specifically, the race will cover the Calanche de Piana in Corsica, the Mont Saint Michel, Albi's Cathedral Sainte Cecile, the historic heart of Lyon and the Gardens of Versailles. Mountain stages will include the mighty Pyrenees, Mont Ventoux in Provence and the Alps where runners will climb up to the Alpe d'huez station twice.  The tour will end on the Champs Elysées for a first time ever arrival at dusk. To attend the Tour de France, I advise booking early in advance as traditionally hotels in the various stages of the tour get filled up quickly.

Calanche de Piana


Mont Saint Michel


Old Lyon- Renaissance Houses

Sunday, September 23, 2012

French Gastronomy Fair-September 22-23

This weekend, France celebrates its gastronomic heritage.  This is the second edition of this new annual event that takes place throughout France.  This follows the UNESCO's 2010 designation of the French gastronomic meal to the list of World Intangible Heritages, which honors the traditional social practice for celebrating with  meals moments in life-- birthdays, births, anniversaries, weddings, achievements or the customary sunday lunch at maman et papa.  It is a celebration in the art of good eating, drinking and togetherness.  A proper French meal includes a careful selection of dishes, the purchase of fresh locally grown products bought at the local market, pairing the food with wine and the setting of a beautiful table.  It usually starts with an aperitif and "amuse gueules" (nibbles), proceed with a starter ("entree"), a main dish of fish/or meat with vegetables; salads with cheese, dessert and coffee with an after-meal liqueur.  This year festival's theme is French Terroir whereas the local cuisines of the different regions of France (27 including Corsica and overseas territories) will be celebrated in their own unique way.   Here are five regional specialities I or someone with me especially enjoyed. Bon Appetit!


Escargot de Bourgogne
Choucroute d'Alsace

Cassoulet de Toulouse



Mussels of Arcachon-Aquitaine



Tarte Tatin- Sologne (my absolute favorite!)

Friday, September 21, 2012

A Flying Carpet has Landed at the Louvre !! New Islamic Arts Center

Musee du Louvre- Philippe Rouault
Islamic Arts has a new showcase and it is at the Louvre. This week the Louvre inaugurated its long in coming Islamic Arts department.  As a brainchild of President Jacques Chirac, it took 10 years from the time of inception of the project till its completion.  Architects Mario Bellini and Rudy Ricciotti designed a glass and gold metal canopy reminiscent for some of a  dragonfly wing and for others a flying carpet. The building is located between the ornate and recently restored neo-classical facades of the  Visconti Courtyard and offers 2,800 m2 of exhibit space to house some 3500 works of Islamic art  many of them never exhibited before. The collection spans 12 centuries from the 7th to the 19th centuries and includes mosaic, carpets and textiles, ceramics, glass works, manuscripts and books.  The collection displayed cover  widely diversed islamic cultures ranging from the Egyptian Mamluks to India Mughal dynasty  and from  Iran to  Morocco, Medieval Spain, and Central Asia. The Louvre holds an estimated 14,000 artworks and artifacts many held for centuries in the royal collection among them is the Baptistere of Saint Louis, a 14th century bronze vessel inlaid in gold, silver and nielo used as baptismal font for the royal children since Louis XIII.   Other priceless treasure on display is an Egyptian Mamluk  porch -an ensemble of 300 stones that once formed the entranceway to the home of Mamluk ruler at the end of the 15th century. 
The Islamic Arts center project costs $125 million and was in part financed by the French Government and by governments of countries like Saudi Arabia, Morocco, Kuwait, Oman and the Republic of Azerbaijan.  
The Louvre Islamic Arts wing opens to the public  this Saturday, September 22. 



Friday, September 14, 2012

Paris Island -Where it all started


Paris' humble beginning started on an island on a wider bend of the Seine river.  The ancient Gallic tribe, the Parisi settled here in the third century BC and lived on wooden pile structures alongside the muddy banks of the river.  The Romans conquest of Gaul in the first century BC, let Emperor Julian to found Lutetia (the ancient name for Paris) on the Ile de la Cite in AD 358.  So smitten was the emperor  with the pleasant climate, the pure water of the Seine and the vineyards on the island, that he sojourned there three years making Paris de facto capital of the Western Empire. Ever since, the heart of the geographical Paris is on the Ile de la Cite.  Centuries later, the island became the seat of Royal power. The Merovingian King Clovis  moved to Paris, made it the kingdom's capital and changed the name from Lutetia to Paris.  His son Childebert built a palace and throughout the Middle Ages, Capetian Kings resided on the Ile de la Cite.  Successive kings enlarged and embellished the palace. Louis IX (Saint Louis) built the Sainte Chapelle to house the Crown of Thorns relic. But, in the 1338 the Valois king, Charles V abandoned the palace and moved to the Louvre.  Over the centuries, the palace served as prison and was called La Conciergerie.  During the French Revolution, it housed the unforgiving Revolutionary Tribunal that tried and then sent over 2600 prisoners to the guillotine including Marie Antoinette, Robespierre, Danton and Charlotte Corday.  The Palace still stands alongside the Seine, its elegant medieval gothic architecture adorning the river bank.  Have you ever noticed the oldest clock in Paris.  It is located on the face of one of the four towers in the Palais de Justice complex and dates from the 14th century (1338).  Until the French Revolution its silver bell announced royal birth by pealing continuously for 72 hours.  It was taken down and melted during the reign of the Terror.  Today you can visit the Palais de la Cite and notably the gem-like Sainte Chapelle, the Palais de Justice (Law Court) and the former prison where you can view Marie Antoinette's cell.  Other landmarks on the Ile de la Cite includes Notre Dame Cathedral and the Hotel Dieu- Paris' oldest hospital.  This will be for another blogpost.




Join Paris Through the Ages Tour -November 4-10 when  we will visit the ile de la Cite and recount its colorful history. Visit www.enchanted-france.com for more information.


Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Ingres' Birthday

Ingres
French painter Jean-August- Dominique Ingres was born on August 29, 1780 in the town of Mautauban located in the southwest region of Midi Pyrenees, an hour north of Toulouse.  He was a Neoclassical painter in the tradition of Jacques Louis David.  The oldest of seven children, Ingres's artistic gift was encouraged early on by his father, himself a sculptor, architect and painter.  At the age of 11, Jean August entered the Academie Royale de Peinture, Sculpture and Architecture in Toulouse where in 1797 he was awarded first prize in drawing.   This led him to travel to Paris to study under the leading painter of his times - Jacques Louis David under whom he apprenticed for four years.  He obtained the prestigious Grand Prix de Rome, in 1801 for his "Ambassadors of Agamemnon in the Tent of Achilles".  Side-tracked by the Napoleonic upheavals, he traveled to Rome six years later to pursue his artistic studies and there he would remain for 25 years.  Early in his career, Ingres produced  work inspired by Greek and Roman mythology-- such as Jupiter and Thetis (1811) ; he also depicted religious themes " Christ Giving the Keys to St. Peter " (1820);  history paintings such as Francois I at the Deathbed of Leonardo da Vinci (1818) and studies of the human body "La Grande Odalisque" (1814) .  While in Rome, he also distinguished himself among the French community as  as a portrait painter and drew portraits of  wealthy tourists visiting on the Grand Tour. After struggling years in Italy, Ingres achieved critical acclaim at the Salon in Paris of 1824 when the Vow of Louis XIII was exhibited.  Subsequently, he became a much sought after painter as portrait artist, teacher and standard-bearer of Classicism.  He lived till the age of 86 and is buried at Pere Lachaise Cemetery in Paris.  You can view his paintings at the Louvre and other fine art museums around the world, but Montauban, the city of his birth has a museum dedicated to the artist.  Ingres had another passion outside of painting which was for playing the violin.  How well, it is a matter of dispute.  However, the French expression "avoir un violon d'Ingres"  is used to signify to have a hobby. Man Ray, as an homage to Ingres titled a series of nude photographs of Kiki in turban "Violon d'Ingres" (1924) where he painted f-holes of a stringed instrument onto the photographic print and then re-photographed the print.

La Grande Odalisque 



Violon d'Ingres -Man Ray