American Art at the Louvre

A new exhibit at the Louvre centers around American Art -Thomas Cole and the Birth of American Landscape painting. Running from January 14 to April 16  the Louvre museum is showcasing Thomas Cole, an early 19th century British born American landscape painter. Five works are on display-- one of which is owned by the Louvre-"The Cross in Solitude"  and the others were drawn from the collection of three American partner institutions-- Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, the High Museum of Art and the Terra Foundation for American Art which contributed a scene form the "Last of the Mohicans".  Thomas Cole is considered a pioneer of the the Hudson River School of painting and is known for his portrayal of dramatic and untouched American landscapes and wilderness. The small exhibit will travel to Atlanta and Arkansas later this year.  At the Louvre, this will be the first  of four other exhibits of American art that will take place in the next four years focusing on themes such as scenes from daily life and portraits at the time of the American Revolution. The museum endeavors to increase French public's knowledge and awareness of early American art.  Of note, the Louvre owns only 4 American paintings out of its 4000+ permanent collection.

Paris flood of 1910-when Paris looked like Venice

Rue de Seine
Photo: Chevojon/BHV (G Leyris)

On January 21 1910, the waters of the seine river started to rapidly rise above normal levels following weeks of heavy rainfalls. Heavily saturated soil could not hold any more moisture thus provoking runoffs in the seine tributaries-the Marne and Yvonne and other streams. The massive volume of water reached the Seine which grew rapidly.  Overnight, it jumped ten feet above normal reaching up to the shoulders of the Zouave (a statue of a soldier under the Alma bridge). The water of the Seine started to  overflow Paris ' sewers and seep into subway tunnels, basements and cellars.  Paris streets soon turned into a lagoon. Ground floor apartments were submerged by the muddy waters while many Parisians were trapped in upper floor dwellings.  Rescuers and those who needed to go out for food supplies or to get to work used canoes and improvised rafts; a network of elevated wooden footbridges were hastily put together to keep pedestrians dry.  In the devastated city, Parisians rallied to help each others and keep the city functioning.  The flood lasted about 10 days but it's memory is still present in the Parisian's consciousness. When you wander around Paris streets today your are often reminded of this event when you see  a black mark on a building indicating where the water reached in that winter over 100 years ago.  I recommend an interesting read "Paris Under Water -How the City of Light Survived the Great Flood of 1910" by Jeffrey Jackson.  

1-2-3 GO-- Les Soldes a Paris

Paris in January and February is cold, dreary and a bit lethargic after all the excitement of Christmas and New Year. One good reason to make the City of Light your winter destination is for shopping, especially to take advantage of "les soldes". Sales in France are state-regulated and run twice yearly-- in winter (January) and in summer (July).  Winter sales this year run from January 11 to February 14.  Department stores,  boutiques and designer outlets run sales that can reach up to 80% reduction over the course of the monthlong sales period.  It covers a wide range of products from clothing, accessories,  shoes, jewelry, perfumes, beauty products, appliances, electronics, housewares, furniture and much more.  So for some great shopping escapades head early to the trendy boutiques of St. Germain des Pres and Le Marais, to le Bon Marche department store for luxury fashion, shoes and accessories, and for housewares and linen and things nothing beats the selection at BHV.  But if you can't make it to Paris this season for the soldes, why not browse the online selection at Galeries Lafayette and Printemps.  Happy hunting!!

On the trail of Joan of Arc

It is believed, Jeanne d' Arc was born 600 years ago on January 6, 1412. She lived a mere 19 years. Her life started in a village of Domremy in the Lorraine region of eastern France, the daughter of poor peasants. Starting in early adolescence she heard celestial voices and had visions commanding her to deliver France from the English occupiers and to lead the king of France to be crowned in Reims. At the age of 16, she set on a perilous voyage across France evading English enemies and their Burgundian allies to meet the dauphin Charles VII in his castle at Chinon. There, she pleaded her cause to the soon to be king promising to lift the English siege of Orleans, chasing them out of France territories and to escort him to Reims for his coronation. Unconvinced at first, Charles VII finally relented after a thorough background check and theological examination. He gave her a small army to bring food supplies to Orleans. Dressed as a knight in armor and holding a white banner with Fleur de Lys, Joanne of Arc arrived at the besieged city on april 29 1429; by May 8 the English gave up the siege and retreated out of the city. Flushed by such sudden victory, Joan went on leading an army recapturing towns after towns all the way to Troyes. This led the way for the dauphin Charles VII to enter Reims where he was crowned King. Following the coronation, the French army marched towards Paris recapturing towns along the way. However, despite an assault on the capital, Paris failed to be re-taken. Injured by a crossbow bolt Joan of Arc and the army were ordered to withdraw. In April 1430, Joan was captured in Compiegne by the Burgundians who sold her to the. English. Tried for heresy because she refused to renounce the voices that guided her, Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in Rouen on May 30 1431. That is only the beginning of the story.  Thirty years later in 1450 a trial of rehabilitation took place that overturned the guilty verdict and in 1920 was canonized as Saint.  Joan of Arc became a legend and emblem for France's nationalism and for freedom. Her courage lives on and her story has inspired countless books, plays, paintings and movies.  

Reims Cathedral-800 Year Anniversary

This year marks the 800 anniversary of Reims cathedral. On a recent visit this July, I revisited the Gothic masterpiece, classified by UNESCO, World Heritage site. Its building started in 1211 to replace an earlier church where Clovis was baptized in 496. Reims Cathedral has been the site of choice for the coronations of 29 kings of France since the 11th century. Of note, in 1429 Joan of Arc escorted Charles VII to his coronation in Reims. The architecture features beautiful and intricately sculpted limestone facade with smiling angels, soaring interior heights and a long narrow nave. Unfortunately, most of the cathedral's original stained glass windows have disappeared, victim of the ravage of time , weather, vandalism during the French Revolution and wars. We can still admire restored versions and new windows by modern artists like Marc Chagall and this past June to commemorate the 800 anniversary of the cathedral six new panes designed by German artist Imy Knoebel were installed. The highlight of my visit to Reims, was viewing the artful sound and light show projected on the cathedral's facade that retraced its long history. It can be viewed every night till the end of October and it is well worth a visit.

Paris Through the Ages Tour November 13-19, 2011

This is an enriching tour for first time visitors and those who desire to know the City of Light more intimately. We will retrace Paris’s history starting when Paris was known as Lutece. It will cover also art, gastronomy and savoir vivre.

Sunday November 13—The group participants will arrive in Paris and settle in their hotel on the left bank. Time to unwind and explore the neighborhood on your own. We will meet in the evening for a welcome dinner. D

Monday November 14- Gallo-Roman and Medieval Paris.

Today we will begin with an exploration of Paris’s Gallo Roman’s past. Conquered by Rome in 52 BC, Lutece as it was first called, developed as a thriving trading post along the Seine River. What remains today of Paris Roman past is Lutetia Arena or Ampitheatre, which is Paris oldest monument. In its heyday, it held 15, 000 seats for spectators eager to view Roman gladiator combat and games. Nearby is rue Mouffetard, a lively market street, which was a Roman road linking Lutecia to Rome. After lunch we will continue with a tour of Medieval Paris.

This will take us to the heart of the Latin Quarter, home to the Sorbonne. This colorful neighborhood of Paris has been the center of higher education ever since 1253 when Robert de Sorbon, Confessor of St. Louis founded a theological school. We will visit medieval alleys around St. Julien le Pauvre and St. Severin churches. You will discover streets with evocative names like rue de la Huchette, rue de laHarpe, rue de la Parcheminerie. We will end the tour on Ile de la Cite, the location of the magnificent Notre Dame cathedral. Evening and dinner at leisure. B/L

Tuesday November 15-Paris in the 17^th century.

We will meet our expert tour guide today for a tour of Paris in the 17^th century. Le Marais, an ancient area of marshes was turned into an aristocratic neighborhood in early 17^th century. In 1605 the elegant Royal Square, known today as Place des Vosges was built. Many French noble families settle here and built impressive urban mansions like the Hotel de Sens, Hotel de Sully, Hotel de Soubise to name a few. Madame de Sevigne, the famous letter writer, lived in the Hotel Carnavalet from 1677 till her death in 1696. We will also evoke here the Jewish past of this neighborhood, which had been for centuries home to a vibrant community. Today le Marais, has been revitalized into the trendiest neighborhood of Paris and home to the Gay community.

After lunch in the Marais, we will continue our tour of 17^th century Paris by heading south to the Ile Saint Louis, a small

island in the Middle of th

e Seine River. Along the Quais de Bethune and Orleans, you will discover an elegant 17^th century architecture ensemble. We will make sure to stop at Berthillon, for a taste of Paris “best” ice-cream. Evening and dinner at leisure.

B/L

Wednesday November 16- Opera House and 19^th century Paris

Your morning will be free to explore on your own, do some shopping or just linger at a café terrace and just enjoy a lively Parisian scene. In the afternoon, we will meet our guide for a visit of 19^th century Opera Garnier. Designed as part of the grand reconstruction of Paris called for by Emperor Napoleon III and executed by Paris Prefet Baron Haussman. Part of the renovation of Paris was to create wide avenues, too wide for rebellious Parisians to build barricades across them. The Opera House was designed by architect Charles Garnier in 1875 in the Beaux Arts style and features a grandiose staircase and a Chagall painted ceiling. The Opera Garnier was the inspiration of the book and subsequent play “Phantom of the Opera”. Did you know there is an underground lake? Evening and dinner at leisure.. B

Thursday November 17- Litterary and artistic St. Germain des Pes

The rest of the day will be free for you to explore on your own. B

Our morning visit today will explore St. Germains des Pres, a neighborhood with an artistic and intellectual reputation. Some past famous residents included Delacroix, Thomas Paine, Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, James Baldwin, Gertrude Stein, Serge Gainsbourg to name a few. After WWII, Black American musicians played in the miniscule jazz clubs that populated saint Germain des Pres in front of eager and appreciative audiences.

Friday November 18- Gourmet Montmartre and La Nouvelle Athens

Today will head to the colorful bohemian neighborhood of Montmartre for a gourmet tour. Along the picturesque rue Lepic, rue des Martyrs and rue des Abbesses, we will visit a local bakery, cheese shop, charcuterie, fish seller. We will end in front of Clos Montmartre Winery.

In the afternoon, we will head to the quartier known as ‘La Nouvelle Athenes”. Little known even by Parisiens, this district of Paris was the home of Romanticism in the 1820’s and 30’s. Frederic Chopin, George Sand, Alexandre Dumas and many others lived and thrived as artists here. You will be enchanted by the pretty alleys and handsome neo-classical private mansions. In the evening we will meet again for a farewell dinner. B/D

Saturday November 19- Tour ends after breakfast. Au revoir!!

B= Breakfast; L=Lunch; D= Dinner

Price : $2328 in double occupancy—Single

supplement: $700 (S3028)

Inclusions:

6 nights at Hotel: Le Littre – a 4 star hotel in St. Germain des Pres/Montparnasse area

Breakfasts

2 dinners and two lunches

Guided tours as described above

Three day metro pass

Tour leader a

t your disposal throughout the trip

Space is limited. To reserve please call toll free 866-313-2856 or email contact@enchanted-france.com

Gateway to the Pyrenees

Today's stage 13 of the Tour de France took place in the heart of the Pyrenees. It started in the beautiful town of Pau (Po), birthplace of King Henry IV and of Jean Baptiste Bernadotte, Marshall of France in the Army of Napoleon and later King of Sweden and Norway. Pau is majestically situated in a plateau overlooking the Gave de Pau and benefits from a mild climate in which plants grow abundantly, in fact in the 19th century English well to-do travelers made Pau a resort destination and built here the first golf course on the continent. Pau has been on the Tour de France circuit 63 times making it one of its most popular stages.